> tapioca world tour

This is Haslah, from the village of Paya Bili, East Aceh. Her village was completely burned by the army two years ago. Since the ceasefire agreement (MoU) last August, the violence has subsided, but only 7 families out of 58 have returned here. They have nothing, but they’re starting the slash-and-burn process to begin growing crops again (watermelon, chili, soya beans, green beans). Haslah had her face kicked repeatedly when the army came. She wrapped her arms around their legs and begged them not to kill her chickens or burn her crops, but they kicked out her teeth and burned everything anyway. She really wanted her photo taken, even though she was crying telling me the story, because no one has helped this village at all. She wants the story to get out, she wants her face to be seen. Her friend Zainabon kept rubbing my skin to see if it would rub off. I was a big party favor in this little village. A very powerful visit.

In Jakarta now, feeling much better, enjoying air conditioning and showers and toilet paper and running water in general. Off to Bangkok, then Phuket, Thailand tomorrow.

And, briefly, DOUGHERTY’S INDEX for March 2006:

Number of times a man walked in on me peeing in a baday, then screamed: 2
Number of times I’ve used the duct tape S. insisted I pack: 5
Number of power bars I’ve consumed in the past eight days: 12
Number of elephants spotted on the side of the road: 1
Number of wild monkeys: 14